The Intimacy of Saint Pierre

I grew up in Newfoundland and Labrador, so I knew about the French islands of Saint Pierre and Miqelon, but I never wanted to visit them. I was young and naive, and on top of that, the thought of driving to the tip of the Burin peninsula was too daunting. I’m now adventurous and adult-like, so a few hours in a car is nothing to me. Plus, the drive is beautiful, especially in the Fall when all those deciduous trees vibrate in bright colours. My wife and I made an attempt to go there in 2022, but unfortunately, Hurricane Earl thwarted our plans, and we had to wait for another opportunity.

Our luck changed in the fall of 2024 when a window opened to visit Saint Pierre. We drove to the town of Fortune to catch the ferry. Having done a little bit of research beforehand, we were assuming that we would take our car across. Staff (and other passengers) advised against this for several reasons. For one, the extra insurance was expensive, and the paperwork was lengthy. For another, the city of Saint Pierre is so compact that you can walk across it entirely in about an hour. We would later find out that the streets are very tight and a little confusing to navigate if you are driving. There seems to be a market or a restaurant on every corner. The convenience of this city makes a car completely unnecessary.

The ferry ride was calm and easy. These beautiful, modern ocean vessels sliced through the waves while we sat in comfort. Halfway through the journey, we saw Minke whales and hundreds of grey-billed Puffins. 

After about an hour, we arrived at the port of Saint Pierre. The ferry staff thanked us as we disembarked the vessel. We were greeted with a gorgeous European town filled with brightly painted houses and classic French architecture. Most of the locals own French cars, but we spotted plenty of North American vehicles as well.

Our accommodation was provided by Hotel Nuits - an elegantly styled three-storey, former family home turned bed and breakfast. Only a couple of blocks from the ferry, Hotel Nuits served as a perfect location to explore the island. The owner, Michel, is charming, funny, and filled with great recommendations. He took the time to book dinner reservations for us, and his suggestions turned out to be nearly perfect. 

The following morning, we decided to go exploring with a couple we met in our hotel who were also from British Columbia. Michel was kind enough to drive us to the trailhead where we embarked on the Étang Frecker - Pointe À Henry hike. This 5km loop takes you out to a view of the island of Grand Colombier - an uninhabited island that is home to thousands of Leach’s Petrel birds. 

Like Newfoundland, trails here are rocky and tundra-like. Careful consideration has been made in the construction of these trails with the addition of wide boardwalks over muddy areas. Since the overall land mass of Saint Pierre is small, there are multiple trail forks which give you options for short loops or to venture off further. Extending your walk is an easy option when you get back to the point at which you started. Instead of finishing our hike, we chose to climb above the city for a better view and a shortcut to the other end of the island. This short, moderately intensive jaunt takes you to the Observatoire de l'Anse à Pierre. This overlook is a great opportunity to snap a photo of the entire city or just take it all in. Trust me; it’s worth it.

After hiking for nearly fifteen kilometers, we were getting tired and thirsty. Our trail walk continues into urban exploration as we meander through the city streets. Our destination is the ​Distillerie du Goeland - a hydroponic urban farm with a distillery located on the outskirts of the city. We arrived at this nondescript warehouse that showed little sign that there was something special going on inside. However, upon entry, we discover a small-scale distillery and numerous bottles of spirits - all different sorts and flavours. Delicious flavours they were - and some that we’d never seen anywhere. Their indoor hydroponic farm is nothing short of amazing. They grow all sorts of produce in vertical trays. Not a typical plot of farmland where you’re relying on good soil and cooperative weather. The climate here is temperature-controlled year round, taking the guesswork out of growing crops. They supply produce for the local restaurants and markets, which seems fitting for an island this tightly-knit and isolated.

Saint Pierre is tiny compared to our North American standards. It’s easy to discover new things and see familiar faces. We made lifelong friends and saw much of the island in the two days we were there. The people of Saint Pierre are some of the most hospitable and friendly you’ll ever meet. Practically everyone says “Bonjour” to you, and the market staff will help direct you to find good-tasting wine.

Our visit to this tiny French island took us by surprise - a very pleasant surprise marked by good food, beautiful landscape, and great hospitality. We didn’t expect to experience a true European city this close to Newfoundland, inhabited by really nice people. Maybe we were a little ignorant beforehand, or quite possibly naive, but we’re glad we finally got an opportunity to visit.

Wayne Parsons