Heart's Ease Beach Trail.

How bad highway conditions led us to discover this historic trail.

My wife and I woke up on a Saturday morning in January to a fresh layer of snow. We had planned to drive to Port Rexton the night before to tackle the Skerwink Trail. However, soon after getting onto the highway, we realized that the road conditions weren’t ideal and that maybe we should alter our plans. We pulled over at the exit to Highway 204, which happens to be the route to Little Heart’s Ease. After a quick search, we saw a trail at the end of the peninsula called the Heart’s Ease Beach Trail. Off we went to discover this new-to-us area.

We arrived at the non-descript trailhead a thirty-minute drive later. There is a parking lot at the head of the trail, located behind the Saint Alban the Martyr Anglican Church at Gooseberry Cove. The trail itself starts well-marked through the forest and is easy to navigate. I’ll admit to being a fan of shorter hikes with nice views, but I wasn’t sure what to expect as the trail winded through tightly spaced trees. As a former trail builder, I admired these trail builders who had carved a nicely benched-in pathway along the hillside. As we exited through the trees and the trail started to open up, we noticed a couple of optional viewpoints and the ultimate prize: the beach!

This large, double-sided rocky beach is our path to a small peninsula where the trail continues onward. But to our surprise, the scenery wasn’t the most interesting bit of our hike, yet the history of the people who made this remote spot home was. Yes, families once made this little piece of land their own, going back centuries. Even the remnants of a foundation of a homestead are still there as the trail passes next to it. According to the Southwest Arm Historical Society, this beach was one of the earliest visited places for migratory European fishermen, dating back to the early 1500s. The SAHS website says, “Archaic Indian stone tools are there, and these have since been confirmed by archaeologists to date back approximately 4000 years.”

This hiking trail holds more history than we expected. We learned that by the mid-1700s, the first settlers are reported to have made the beach their permanent residence. The Society states that the number of people living there peaked at around 68 in 1874, and judging by the small size of this area, that number seems quite high. The last two residents of Heart’s Ease Beach passed away in 1923 and 1924, respectively, with artifacts of their home still scattered on the small peninsula at the other end of the beach.

We continued hiking the trail as it circumnavigated this tiny peninsula. Within a few minutes, we noticed something rather breathtaking - a natural arch carved out of the sheer cliff below. As a photographer, it was such a nice treat to see this beautiful natural feature within such a short walk. It rose from the sea, proudly on display as if it were masterfully placed. The views opened up and improved as we overlooked the expanse of the neighbouring coastline up and down Trinity Bay. My wife and I stopped and took it all in while waves crashed and rumbled below our perch high atop the cliff’s edge. What a treat.

It was winter, and the winds were strong, yet the sun shone all around us. We had to time the waves as we crossed back over the beach so we wouldn’t get splashed. While the weather was nice that day in January, I would imagine that going there during the summer months would be that much more spectacular. I also thought about those early settlers braving the harsh elements down at the ocean’s edge. Just the feeling of isolation during those legendary Newfoundland winter storms must have caused many sleepless nights living in such an exposed location.

As far as hikes go, this one is short and overall pretty easy. My recommendation is to bring a camera with a wide-angle lens, although your phone’s camera will suffice if that’s all you have with you. There are eagles there, so taking a telephoto lens is not a terrible idea. Comfortable walking shoes are fine, as the trail itself is moderately easy, albeit steep in sections. Lightweight hiking boots would be better for tackling the rocky beach. There are a couple of picnic tables, and on a calm day, it would be a great place to stop for a snack. Before you go, do some research on the history of the people who made this unique spot home. Then, look for remnants of old homes and artifacts along the hike, as the history is what truly makes this place special.


Wayne Parsons